Best of Upper Rhine

2019 UPDATE OF MY FAVOURITES CHRISTMAS MARKETS !

The Christmas period in the upper Rhine valley (Alsace and nearby Germany and Switzerland) starts every year more or less one month before Christmas. A lot – a big lot – of Christmas events are organized all over the region: Christmas markets, concerts, story telling and nativity scenes. Some of them are daily and permanent and last for several weeks (see at the bottom of the page). I would recommend to visit them on weekdays, away from the crowd. Some others only happen at a specific date. Here are some of the events I like most. In order for every visitor to plan his holiday I classified them according to the calendar and dates of happening. All those events are happening every year more or less in the same order.

Click on the links to go to the corresponding section.

– Permanent Christmas markets
– November 29. to December 01. weekend
– December 06-08. weekend
– December 13-15. weekend
– Christmas markets on several weekends
– Christmas markets continue even after December 25
– The most beautiful Nativity scenes can be admired until February 2.

BADEN-BADEN – Germany

Christkindelsmarkt
November 28. 2019 – January 6. 2020, daily from 11:00 to 21:00,
28 November: solemn opening at 17:00; December 24. and 31. from 11:00 to 16:00.

Nestled at the foot of the Black Forest, about an hour and a half drive from the Colmar / Riquewihr region, the traditional Christkindelsmarkt, the « Jesus Children Market’s » of Baden-Baden, with its many attractions, transports you to a winter fairy tale: the scent of mulled wine and gingerbread accompanies you during your walk among more than 100 high quality stands in front of the casino and its gardens. Just off Christkindelsmarkt, boutiques and luxury shops connect with the historic Old Town, where shoppers can succumb to their favorite temptations. An excursion that is worth the trip.

BASEL – Switzerland

From 28 November to December 23, 2019. Every day 11:00 – 20:30

The Basel Christmas market takes place on the Barfüsserplatz in the heart of the old town and in front of the cathedral. In a warm and magical atmosphere, merchants and craftsmen from the region and throughout Switzerland offer their products and demonstrate their skills throughout some 130 stalls and wooden illuminated chalets. The Christmas market in Basel is the largest in Switzerland. Easy access by train from Colmar.

COLMAR

Friday Nov 22, 2019 to Saturday Dec 28, 2019

The city of Colmar holds the second largest Christmas market in France after Strasbourg. Opening festivities of Christmas in Colmar start on 22 of November 2019. In fact, in Colmar, there is not only one Christmas market! There are five Christmas markets with different historical contexts that await you in the old town center of this beautiful city of Colmar. Feel free to go there during the week and as early as the end of November. It will be less crowded and it will be more enjoyable. You will be able to see all things in detail without being jostled by the crowds that flock here on weekends.
See my article about the Christmas markets of Colmar

ECOMUSEE d’ALSACE – Alsace Living Museum 

Every day from November 30, 2019 to January 5, 2020 (10:30 to 18:30) – Closed on Mondays

The Living Museum of Alsace is located in Ungersheim between Colmar and Mulhouse. It is a complete village built with historical houses rescued over years everywhere in Alsace. Secrets for an authentic Christmas is a collection of exhibitions, storytelling, guided tours, etc. that take place every day from November 24 to January 6. A must see not to be missed!

EGUISHEIM

Friday, Nov 29, 9:00 to 20:00 – Sunday, Dec 22 from 9:00 to 19:00 and from Dec 27 to Dec 30, from 9:00 to 19:00 and Saturday until 20:00.

Eguisheim is another beautiful medieval village on the Alsace wine route, a half-hour drive of Riquewihr. Beautiful Christmas market with a different theme each week followed after Christmas until Dec 31 by the market of the Magi.

FREIBURG im BREISGAU (Germany)

Nov 21 – Dec 23, 2019. Mon-Sat 10:00 am – 8:30 pm, Sun 11:30 am-7:30 pm.

Located in the very heart of Freiburg’s beautiful old historical quarter, the Freiburg Christmas Market is held on the Rathausplatz, the Franziskanerstraße, the Unterlindenplatz and on the Kartoffelmarkt.

GENGENBACH (Germany) – The giant Advent Calendar

30 November 2019 – Dec, 23. Monday to Friday from 15:00 – 20:00, Saturday and Sunday from 12:00 – 20:00

Gengenbach is a beautiful historical city on the German side of the Rhine valley with plenty of romantic old houses with wooden frameworks, very similar to the houses we have in Alsace actually. In 2019 from the 30th of November until the 23rd of December (a day before Christmas Eve), the magnificent 200 year old Town Hall facade comes to a new life.
The opening ceremony of a new window is happening every day exactly at 18.00 o’clock.
The opening times of Gengenbach Advent market: Monday to Friday from 15:00 – 20:00, Saturday and Sunday from 12:00 – 20:00.
See our report and pictures of Gengenbach.

MEISENTHAL – The Craddle of the Christmas bauble.

From Saturday, November 10 to the end of December. Every day 14:00 – 18:00. Closed Dec 24-25.

Glass has been produced in Meisenthal since the early 18th century, and since the 19th century Christmas decorations from Meisenthal were famous. They say the Christmas baubles hanging in the Christmas firs were first invented and created there. It is possible to watch glassblowers in their activity of glassblowing, especially during the holiday season, when they make thousands of Christmas baubles in the old traditional and artisanal way. Take some home to decorate your own Christmas fir!
See our report and pictures about Meisenthal glass factory and Christmas baubles.

A drive to Meisenthal is to combine with a visit to the Cristalleries Royales de Saint-Louis (nearby) and the beautiful Musée Lalique, 40 Rue du Hochberg, 67290 Wingen-sur-Moder. In December, end the day on your way back with a stop at the Christmas market of Strasbourg.

MONTBELIARD

From Nov 23, 2019 to Dec 24, 2019. Every day.

Did you know that Montbeliard and Riquewihr once had, for 400 years, a common destiny? From the fourteenth century until the Revolution, the seigneury of Riquewihr belonged to the counts of Wurtemberg who administered their property from the castle of Montbeliard. Just an hour’s drive from Riquewihr, the Montbéliard Christmas market, organized around the Saint Martin temple (the oldest Lutheran place of worship in France) is magnificent.

MULHOUSE

From Nov 23, 2019 to Dec 27, 2019. Every day from 10:00 to 20:00, closed Dec 25. 

A wonderful Alsatian Christmas market beautifully decorated in the heart of the historic center of Mulhouse. This Christmas market has an outstanding feature: the Christmas Fabric, a fabric created each year for the occasion and which refers to the rich industrial and artistic past of Mulhouse on weaving.

OBERNAI

Saturday 23 Nov to Tuesday 31 Dec. 2019, Monday-Thursday 10:00 – 19:00, Friday and Saturday until 20:00, Sunday opening at 09:00. Except DEC 24 and 31: 10:00 – 16:00, Dec 26 14:00 – 20:00. Closed on Dec 25 Christmas Day.

Obernai is another beautiful medieval city of Alsace. The thirty wooden chalets of the “Christmas Gastronomy in Alsace” Market invite you in an enchanting setting between scents of gingerbread and mulled wine scent to fill your baskets of local produce and crafts gifts.

RIQUEWIHR

Nov 30 to Dec 22, 2019. From 10:00 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. on weekdays and from 10:00 to 19:30 on Saturday and Sunday. Inaugural Nov 29.

Riquewihr is one of the most beautiful villages in France. The stalls of the plaza near the City Hall are open daily. But there are also other stands in some private courtyards of Riquewihr and even in some side streets.
– See our dedicated page with pictures and practical hints and tips.
– Download the brochure with all 2018 Christmas festivities in and around Riquewihr and Ribeauvillé.

SELESTAT- historical craddle of the Christmas fir

Nov 29 to Dec 29, 2019 for the Christmas Market.
Several exhibitions can be seen up to Jan 5, 2020.

Beautiful Christmas events that deserve your visit. Selestat in Alsace is the craddle of the Christmas fir (first written mention dating back to the year 1521) and presents beautiful exhibitions about the Christmas tree and its history. Not to be missed. The Christmas Village (with the chalets) will be open from NOV 30 to DEC 30.
Every day from 10:00 to 19:00, Fridays and Saturdays until 20:00 and exceptional closing at 16:00 on DEC 24/12. Saint-Nicholas parade on DEC 6 afternoon. Some exhibitions last until JAN 5, 2020.
See our dedicated page with pictures and practical hints and tips.

STRASBOURG

From 22 November to 30 December 2019 : Christmas market every day from 10:00 to 20:00 (until 21:00 on Fridays and Saturdays). December 24: 10:00 to 18:00.

Strasbourg is certainly the world capital of Christmas. The whole historical city center is listed as World Heritage by UNESCO. Apart from the 300 wooden chalets of the several Christmas markets the scenery and the Christmas lights and decorations are absolutely beautiful.
See our dedicated page with pictures and important practical hints and tips.

THANN

Saturday, Nov 23 to Tuesday, Dec 24, 2019. Closed on Mondays. Tuesday to Thursday: 14:30 – 19:00, Friday 14:30 – 20:00, Saturday 10:00 – 20:00 – Sunday 10:00 – 19:00 – December 24: 10:00 – 17:00.

Thann is a little Alsatian city nested in a narrow valley near Mulhouse. It is famous for it incredible wine (on the Rangen hill) and for its beautiful church (Collégiale St-Thiébaut). Enter the magic of Christmas on the theme of White Christmas and discover the Christmas market around the Collegiate Church nestled in the heart of a decorated forest of firs. In the Middle Ages, during the Advent time before Christmas, holy tales and stories were played in front of churches. So it is in Thann on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.

All permanent Christmas markets listed at the top of this page plus all events related to St Nicholas’s Day. As I was a child St Nicholas’s Day was a major event. It is still like that in Alsace. Do not miss the St Nicholas’s Parade in Sélestat (see below).

BURKHEIM AM KAISERSTUHL (Germany)

From Friday November 29. to Sunday December 01. Friday: 16:00-21:00; Saturday: 14:00-21:00; Sunday 11:00-19:00

A beautiful Christmas market just across the Rhine. It always takes place the weekend of December 1st. Warm atmosphere in the alleys of Burkheim, we light fires to warm up, we drink a good mulled wine from the local cooperative, we even taste the Sekt (local sparkling wine like Crémant in Alsace) in real beautiful glass not in plastic! Park your car at the bottom of the rampart and climb into this pretty little fortified place to live Christmas.

SELESTAT – Procession of Saint-Nicholas

December 6, 2019 from 16:30

Procession of Saint-Nicholas and opening of the Christmas market. Spectacular night parade in the streets of downtown (from 16:30), speech by the saint patron of schoolchildren (18:00 – Victory Square) and distribution of sweets and hot chocolate to good children.

Selestat remains a city somewhat unknown to tourists. Perhaps because they often rush on the highway from Strasbourg to Colmar without thinking of stopping at Selestat. What a pity! Selestat is a beautiful city with a rich historical and architectural heritage. Christmas animations are nice and tidy. It is also the historical birthplace of the Christmas tree, with the oldest written reference in the world dating back to 1521.

This second weekend of Advent, the choice will become even more difficult as there are so many beautiful events to attend. I am afraid you will need several years to get it all done!

BERGHEIM

Dec 06 to 08, 2019. Friday 15:00-21:00, Saturday and Sunday 10:00-21:00.

Bergheim is another beautiful village on the wine route close to Ribeauvillé and Riquewihr. Combining tradition and creativity, this Christmas market will delight you with its warm and authentic atmosphere in the heart of the walled city of Bergheim. Also do not miss the beautiful exhibition of Nativity Scenes.

BOUXWILLER (Bas-Rhin)

Dec 07 and 08, 2019. Saturday 11:00-20:00 and Sunday 11:00-19:00.  

Bouxwiller is a pretty Alsatian village of the Kochersberg, a small region between Saverne and Haguenau, famous for its preserved colorful traditions and painted Alsatian pine furniture. Every year in mid-December during a single weekend, stands a large Christmas market with nearly 150 exhibitors. Many of them offer delicious local produce, wines and gastronomic specialties, but also crafts, Nativity scenes and other Christmas decorations manufactured in Alsace. There are always lots of people, mostly locals who like to meet here. An authentic Christmas market off the beaten track.

NEUF BRISACH 

Dec 6-8, 2019. From 14:00 to 19:00 on Friday, 10:00 to 21:00 on Saturday and 10:00 to 19:00 on Sunday.

Neuf-Brisach stronghold is listed as World Heritage by UNESCO. They present live Christmas traditions at the time of Vauban, the famous architect who built the stronghold in the 17th Century. Exhibitors and extras in period costumes, old trades, tavern, boar on the spit, farm animals … back in time with the Christmas Market as it was in the years 1700!

ORSCHWILLER 

Saturday 7 and Sunday 8 December

The «Authentique Village de Noël» (Authentic Christmas village) is an event that takes place every 2 years. Next time will be Dec 2019. Orschwiller is a small village on the Alsace wine route at the foot of Haut-Koenigsbourg. Family atmosphere of religious and popular tradition of the Nativity. Lively village, decorated and illuminated with passion by associations and residents. Enjoy an evening of lights and emotions. A beautiful moment indeed …

OTTMARSHEIM 

Dec 06-08, 2019. Friday 14:00-19:00, Saturday 10:00-20:00 and Sunday 10:00-19:00.

Unique in France, the Christmas market of Ottmarsheim owes its originality and success to the fact that museums come to exhibit and sell the products of their shops in addition to high quality artists who are also invited. Entertainment, strolling, concerts, storytelling … And last but not least, part of the celebration, one of the most original and beautiful medieval churches in Alsace on site hosts concerts and storytelling. Snacks by village associations.

RIBEAUVILLE

Dec 7-8 and 14-15, 2019. Saturday 10:00-19:00 and Sunday 10:00-18:00.

A well known and spectacular Christmas event. Everything as it might have been in the Middle Ages.
With dances, costumes and colourful characters …
Download the brochure with all 2018 Christmas festivities in and around Riquewihr and Ribeauvillé.

See also the permanent markets: Strasbourg, Riquewihr, Colmar, Mulhouse or Altkirch as well as the Christmas markets held on weekends only like Kaysersberg.

BLACK FOREST OPEN AIR MUSEUM in GUTACH (Germany)

Dec 13-14-15, 2019. Friday 17:00 – 21:00, Saturday 13:00-21:00 & Sunday 11:00 – 19:00.

The open air museum is normally closed in Winter but will open for a special Christmas Market event mid December every year. A very special place in a different atmosphere. See our report and pictures about a previous Christmas market at the Gutach Black Forest Living Museum.

GRENDELBRUCH 

Dec 14-15 and Dec 21-22, 2019

Christmas with the woodcutters in a lonely village in the mountain. Dec 15-16, 2018. Concert on Sunday at 17:00. Christmas market with a beautiful nativity scene in the church of the village. Beautiful and mysterious. Off the beaten path. I love it. Combine this with a visit to the little city and Christmas market of Rosheim in the same area or Obernai.

RIBEAUVILLE

Dec 7-8 and 14-15, 2019. Saturday 10:00-19:00 and Sunday 10:00-18:00.

A well known and spectacular Christmas event. Everything as it might have been in the Middle Ages.
With dances, costumes and colourful characters …
Download the brochure with the Christmas festivities in and around Riquewihr and Ribeauvillé.

WISSEMBOURG

Nov 30-Dec 1, Dec 7-8 and Dec 14-15 2019. Night Parade of Hans Trapp and Christkindel, Sunday, December 15, 2019 – 17:00

Wissembourg is just at the north end of Alsace. From Riquewihr or La Vancelle, it takes a good hour and a half drive (highway). The Christmas market in Wissembourg is held every weekend from end of November. But if you are looking for a different event, then spend the afternoon of December 20 with a trip to Wissembourg. You will participate in the torchlight procession around Christkindel and Hans Trapp (two typical Alsatian tale characters of the Christmas time) and discover this great magical event taking place in Wissembourg only.

KAYSERSBERG

Friday 29 November to Sunday 22 Dec 2019, every Friday, Saturday and Sunday 10:00 – 20:00.

The medieval town of Kaysersberg, protected by the shadow of the ruins of its castle, invites you to an enchanting ride in the heart of a picturesque and authentic 17th century city … A wonderful moment guaranteed for young and old!

ROSHEIM

Friday 06 December to Sunday 22 Dec 2019, every Friday, Saturday and Sunday. From 16:00 to 20:00 on Saturdays and 14:00-19:00 on Sundays.

Rosheim is a pretty little medieval city near Obernai and the Mount St Odile monastry. Rosheim has a unique old medieval church where you will see a great Nativity scene. Beautiful Christmas light shows after sunset.

TURCKHEIM 

Friday 29 Nov to Sunday 22 Dec. 2019. Monday to Thursday from 13:00 to 19:00, Friday, Saturdays and Sundays 11:00 to 1900. 

Turckheim celebrates Christmas every year, with the Christmas ceremonial of the Advent calendar … Not to mention his famous night watchman in his traditional costume. You are invited to go with him in his nocturnal round. He will tell the story of the city of Turckheim while punctuating the route of anecdotes and Alsatian songs. The night watchman’s round starts at 22:00 in front of the city hall.

After Christmas Day on December 25, the atmosphere remains at its peak in the Upper Rhine Valley until Epiphany on January 6th. Visit the Christmas markets of Baden-Baden until 6/01; Colmar until 29/12; the Ecomuseum of Alsace until 05/01; Eguisheim until 30/12; Munster until 31/12; Obernai until the 31/12; Strasbourg until 30/12; Selestat until 05/01. Some spectacular events also took place at that time, such as the Schauenberg torchlight procession.

SCHAUENBERG FLAMBE RETIREMENT

The torchlight retreat to Notre-Dame du Schauenberg in Alsace takes place every year on December 28 from the village of Pfaffenheim.

MY TRAIL OF CRECHES

January is the month of nurseries. Christmas is the starting point and Epiphany, January 6 with the arrival of the Magi, a moment of magic that extends until early February. Tradition has it that the cribs in the churches are exposed until the Candlemas (February 2), 40 days after Christmas, commemorative day of the presentation of Jesus to the temple and blessing candles. This is still often the case for our greatest happiness because some crèches are real works of art, sometimes monumental, which deserve your visit. If you are interested in the subject, discover my article with pictures and presentation of the most beautiful crèches in the Upper Rhine Valley. (page in French, active automatic translation)

Stay in a beautiful accommodation with a festive Christmas atmosphere

To make your visit in Alsace a memorable one, stay at les Remparts Riquewihr – in one of our new holiday apartments, set in a historic winery facing the vineyards of Riquewihr.

We also have a holiday home in the beautiful mountain village of La Vancelle. La Vancelle is a haven in a prime location opposite the castle of Haut-Koenigsbourg. It is away from the noise and bustle but easily accessible in all seasons.

Riquewihr and Vancelle are very practical bases for visiting and touring throughout Alsace, Vosges and even nearby Germany and Switzerland.